There are three fibers from which Kashmiri shawls are made wool, pashmina and shahtoosh.Woolen shawls are popular because of the embroidery work on them, which is typical to Kashmir. Many kinds of embroidery are worked on shawls 'sozni' or needlework is generally done in a panel along the sides of the shawl. The fineness of the workmanship and the amount of embroidery determines the value of the shawl.Sozni is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides of the shawl each side having a different colour.
Pashmina is unmistakable for its softness. Pashmina yarn is spun from the hair of the ibex found at 14,000 ft above sea level. Pure Pashmina is expensive. Pashmina shawls that Kashmir's most exquisite embroidery is worked, sometimes covering the entire surface, earning it the name of 'jamawar'. Less frequently seen weave,done only on Pashmina, covers the surface with tiny lozenge shaped squares, earning it the delightful name of 'Chashme bulbul', or eye of the bulbul. As this weave is a masterpiece of the weaver's art, it is normally not embroidered upon.